We asked trichologist Philip Kingsley to look under a microscope to reveal the true state of health of three women . . .
THE YOUNG WOMAN
Lizzy Pender, 27, an IT consultant, is single and lives in London.
She says: 'Because my hair is thick and healthy, I don't worry about it. I wash it with whatever shampoo I happen to buy and it is fine. It lacks bounce and can look dull on occasions, though.
I usually skip breakfast and just have a coffee, sometimes a sandwich with crisps and a drink for lunch. If I'm busy I'll grab a takeaway for dinner. I also smoke occasionally.'
Philip's verdict
Split ends: Lizzy has genetically great hair but she is harming it. She has split ends due lack of nourishment to the hair.
Her hair is brittle and dull and lacks essential minerals and vitamins.
Lizzy has lost more than a stone in weight in two months due to stress, which would explain a lot about her hair.
This lack of nourishment from bad diet is typical of stressed adults, often resulting in hair that is greasy at the roots and dry and brittle at the ends.
Fine dandruff: Lizzy has this because she is stressed and is pumping out adrenaline. Her levels of male hormones -androgenes - are high, which is why she is getting a fine flaking scalp. Androgenes give you dandruff and make your hair thin because they encourage the body to overproduce grease.
Hair loss: Lizzy is also putting herself at risk of premature hair loss because of her stress levels and lack of decent diet. Her high levels of androgenes will already be weakening the hair at the front and top of her head.
Remember that you barely notice this until the end of a typical three-year hair growth cycle, and probably not until the end of two cycles, but the damage may be setting in.
Shorter top layers: Lizzy's diet and stress levels also show in the length of the top layer of her hair. Many top hairs are breaking off before they reach full length, leaving a shorter layer on the surface hairs. This may suggest a three-year hair cycle has already been weakened.
Diet: Lizzy must eat more protein to give the hair strength, body and shine. She must eat breakfast and a proper lunch with some red meat if possible.
Smoking has little effect on hair. But drinking alcohol in moderation can benefit its growth because it encourages 'good' hormones to fight the damaging androgene ones.
She should reduce her intake of unhealthy fats from processed food and eat more protein and carbohydrates.
Suggested treatment: An intense moisturising shampoo and conditioner; two gelatin supplements a day; a mild antiseptic scalp tonic for fine dandruff; twice-weekly application of a pre-shampoo treatment to moisturise the ends; daily application of my PM36B oil, developed from duck oils, to give prevent dryness.
OLDER WOMAN
Jill Hennessy, 50, is a receptionist from Basingstoke, Hampshire, and married with two grownup children.
She says: 'My hair is thick and healthy. Many friends have lost hair as they hit that pre-menopausal age, but I have been lucky.
I eat a healthy diet, which adds to the condition of my hair. But my hair is more wiry than when I was younger, probably because it is about 40 pc grey.
Typically, I eat wholemeal toast or cereal for breakfast, a low-fat sandwich and yoghurt for lunch and pasta with either chicken or fish, plus a glass of white wine, at dinner.'
Philip's verdict:
Flaky scalp: This is because Jill is suffering from prolonged periods of premenstrual tension in her pre-menopausal stage.
The flakes are large and caused by a change in the scalp's grease secretions. She is also slightly anaemic due to heavier periods, which can cause flaking.
Thinning hair: Jill has lost volume to her hair at the front, again because of changes to the scalp's secretions.
These are linked to a greater release of adrenaline from pre-menopausal stress, which is one of the triggers for androgenes, which cause hair loss and thinning.
Levels of the hormone oestrogen have also dropped off, which usually counteract the androgenes as well as prolonging the hair-growth cycle.
Coarse hair: Jill may think her hair is coarser, but it isn't. It is a myth that grey hair is more wiry. It is thinner than the hair around it, so it sticks up more, which makes it appear coarse.
Diet: Jill's diet is typical of many women her age: low-fat with no protein. This is contributing to the hair thinning.
Hair is a protein called keratin and, therefore, it's vital to restore it with protein through diet and special products.
She must eat at least 2oz of protein for breakfast and 4oz for lunch. Dinner is the least important meal of the day for healthy hair. She should also change to drinking red wine. White wine is a trigger for androgenes.
Suggested treatments: Daily gelatin, iron and Vitamin C supplements to help iron absorption; weekly antidandruff shampoo; five drops daily of Anti-Androgene Scalp Drops to suppress male hormones.
THE NEW MOTHER
Maia Dickinson is a film producer from London, married, with one child aged four and a six-month-old baby.
She says: 'I am sure my hair has started to fall out because I am breastfeeding. Because my hair is thinning I tend to wash it, which can make hair loss worse, only twice a week.
Typically, I eat pastries with cereal for breakfast, a sandwich or pasta with chocolate, flapjack or a piece of fruit at lunch and, for dinner, meat and vegetables or sometimes chips. If I snack, it's usually on cakes or biscuits.'
Philip's verdict:
Red itchy scalp: This condition is caused by Maia having too much fat in her blood. It clogs up the scalp's pores, causing irritation and heavy flaking.
Sudden hair loss: It is a myth that breastfeeding causes hair loss. Women who have just given birth experience a rapid and sudden drop in oestrogen, which keeps the hair more elastic and prolongs the growth cycle.
Breastfeeding keeps oestrogen levels high, so it is strange that Maia is losing her hair.
Greasiness from infrequent washing suppresses new hair growth. The wrong (cheap) washing products - loaded with harsh chemicals - cause dry or brittle hair.
Diet: The main reason for Maia's hair loss is her bad diet and a recent illness. Her hair shows signs of massive malnutrition, lacking essential minerals and vitamins.
During her pregnancy Maia had dysentery and was unable to hold down any food. Then after the birth she went on to a high fat-intake diet. She needs to cut down on sugar and fat and eat more protein.
Suggested treatment: A weekly application of a strong antibacterial sulphur cream to disinfect the scalp; three 'scalp steam' treatments to let the cream penetrate deeper: scalp massage; a stronger moisturising shampoo and conditioner; daily iron supplement; daily gelatin supplement.
Drink plenty of water to flush away toxins and wash hair every day. ( dailymail.co.uk )
Blog : The Compatibility | What your hair tells you about your health
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